Ramadan, inyanga yamaMuslim yokuzila ukudla, isiqalile. Kwakubukeka kanjena ngosuku okwathathwa ngalo lezi zithombe, ngosuku lokuqala lweRamadan. Ngizozama ukusondeza lowo mkhathi kuwe ngesipiliyoni.
Mina no-Hasan besilokhu sibingelelana sisuka kude, sazana iminyaka engamashumi amabili nanhlanu, ufana nomfowethu kithi eBUBO. Usekhulile manje, kodwa ngiyakhumbula ukuthi wayehlale ethandana kanjani noSlovenes, wabe esebhala izincwadi, eshaya izingcingo. Wakhetha abadala, babengenazo lapha eSahara. Owesifazane oyisidudla ufana nengubo, Lubo, ukufudumeza ebusuku. Wahleka ngimangazwa ukunambitheka kwakhe. Luba, uma ufuna ukuziphindiselela endodeni, mthumelele umfazi omuhle. Abafazi abahle bayisiqalekiso. Wadansa washaya isigubhu kwaze kwasa.
Manje ugqunywe ku-jalabiya enesikhafu ekhanda, ulinde ngamajipi amane kusukela ekuseni. AmaBedouin ajwayele ukulinda, ihora, usuku, isonto, ogwadule izinto zenziwa ngokucophelela nangokuzola. Futhi ngakho uHasan ubelokhu elindile kusukela ekuphumeni kwelanga namuhla. Kungangehlula mina uqobo, kodwa upholile. Siyangana, silahle imithwalo yethu ebhasini singene ezimotweni zethu sihambe. Izimoto azinawo ama-air conditioning, ingaphuka noma yikanjani esihlabathini esigcwele yonke indawo, sigqoke izibuko zethu, sibeke izikhafu esizithengile emakhanda sivule amawindi. Abanye, ikakhulukazi izingane zethu, bagxumela ophahleni, lapho isiphephetha-moya sendawo sisebenza kangcono nakakhulu. Sifika endlini enkulu yodaka - kasbah kakade ngehora lesithathu ntambama. izindonga, igceke elinesivande esingenasihlahla esisodwa, uphahla oluyisicaba lapho abanye bezolala khona, ngoba akunamvula lapha.
Kodwa-ke, amafu amnyama amnyama angena esuka eSahara, okuyivelakancane njengeqhwa ehlobo. Ngibheka iwashi lami, sathatha uhambo ngesikhathi esirekhodiwe, ngokuvamile sasifika sekuhwalele, kodwa manje sisenesikhathi sohlelo. Hasan, sizokwenzani? Ingabe unayo i-skis ne-snowboard? Ayini amakamela akho? Ngimjikijela imibuzo njenge-AK 47. Kodwa u-Hasan akaphenduli, avele asho ukuthi uhlelo alusekho, kunesivunguvungu sasogwadule, asigoqe silinde... Kumanje ngibonile ukuthi usephumile. amandla. Njengoba ngihlele ukuhlukana kwejeep ukuze sishintshe imithwalo, angizange ngiqaphele nokuthi u-Hasan wayehlukile.
Ngesikhathi sibingelelana, sangana, saphuzana emahlombe. Kodwa wabe eshayela i-jeep ehlukile kunale engangihlezi kuyo. Ingabe wayemamatheka? Kodwa yebo, wamomotheka lapho sangana, kodwa hhayi kusukela ngaleso sikhathi. Ingabe uyagula? Waguga, yiqiniso lelo. Kuyafika engqondweni yami uma efuna ukusidayisela i-Al-Qaeda, manje eseyimfashini eSahara futhi iSahara iyindawo eyingozi kakhulu kulezi zinsuku. Abazala bakaHasan, amaTuareg, bafuna ukusungula izwe labo, futhi ubuphekula busezingeni eliphezulu kakhulu. Kodwa futhi - iSahara iyona ephephe kunazo zonke eMorocco, ngaphandle kwalokho, ngifana nomfowethu kuHasan noBedouin udumo lungaphezu kwakho konke okunye. Akasoze angikhaphela, neze!
Ngiyambheka, akazange ngisho anyakaze, ukuthi akunancazelo, ngakho ngithatha abantu ngokwami ngishiye uHasan nabangane bakhe kanye neKoran ezandleni zakhe.
Sigibele amakamela futhi sizigibele eqhweni, njengoba nje saqala ngo-1995. Emuva ngaleso sikhathi sasiphethe ama-skis ethu indlela yonke sisuka e-Slovakia ngebhasi. IMorocco yayikude njengoba iKiribati namuhla.
I-Sahara iyathandeka njengezintaba. Abangane bami baseJalimane bathanda ugwadule olukhulu kunawo wonke emhlabeni futhi bahamba lapha amashumi eminyaka. Bathwebula futhi bapenda iSahara, ababeyibheka njengengxenye enhle kakhulu yeplanethi yethu. Nokho, eminyakeni yamuva nje baye bawuyeka umsebenzi wabo wokuzilibazisa ngenxa yamaphekula. Ngazifaka engozini izikhathi ezimbalwa ngawela iSahara ngisuka eSudan, ngidlula e-Ennedi empumalanga ngaya eTimbuktu. I-Mauritania entshonalanga. Isifunda sithakazelisa ngempela. Ngachitha izinyanga eziningi lapha, ngabhekana nazo zonke izinhlobo zezinto, ngaqoqa okuhlangenwe nakho okungazuzwa kuphela ngokuzama izinto, ngokwenza izinto. U-Allah uthengisa ulwazi ngomsebenzi, kuphela uma wenza, ufunda izinto, ngaphandle kwalokho akunakwenzeka, kusho amaBedouins. Ngokuvamile akukho okwenziwa lapha amahora amade, abantu bacabanga, bakhulume ngamaqiniso asendulo bese bewabelana nabangane.
I-Sahara yase-Moroccan ngokusobala iyona ethengekayo kakhulu kulezi zinsuku, ngeke ngiyise izingane zami kwenye indawo, kodwa kuhle lapha (ikakhulukazi ngo-Hasan).
Manje izingane zidlala ezindundumeni, zigibela amakamela, i-sandboard, bahleke... kuze kuphakame umoya. Khona-ke ngizobabuyisela ngokushesha abantu, ngoba uma isihlabathi sinyakaza, uzolahleka futhi kuphelile ngawe. E-Sahara, umuntu ulahleka ngamamitha-skwele ayishumi, sengivele ngakubona lokho. Konke kuyefana ngokuzumayo, ujikela endaweni engafanele, indunduma ivala umgwaqo futhi ngemva kwezinyathelo eziyishumi usendaweni ehluke ngokuphelele. Uphuma ejini, udlule ngemuva kwendunduma ukuze uzikhulule ukuze abantu bangakuboni, kushaye umoya, ujike ubheke eceleni, uthathe amanye amagxathu amabili, uphethe umakhalekhukhwini wakho esikhwameni sakho. i-jeep, ubuka ilanga, uya phambili wenze iphutha.
Lokhu kuphinde kwenzeke uma ngithatha izithombe, uma ngidukile kanje enyakatho ye-Fay Largeau e-Chad. Ngabe sengigijimela esiqongweni esiphakeme kunazo zonke ukuze ngibone ukuthi eyethu yayibhekephi Imvelo inhle ngakhohlwa yimina ngashutha ngathatha izithombe ngathi ngiphakamisa ikhanda ngingedwa kungekho muntu kwakuphephuka amadwala (kwakungesiso isihlabathi iSahara lesi) wayengenalo ngisho ibhodlela lamanzi... Indoda iyafundisa nje. Ngeke ngiphinde ngikwenze.
Lapho imoto yakho ifa e-Sahara, Ľuba, yiqale ngokushesha. Ungacabangi, vele ukhanyise. Umuntu (mhlawumbe) uzobona umlilo nentuthu bese evela kude. Uma uyikhanyisa ngezinsuku ezintathu, ingase iphuze kakhulu kuwe. Akukhathalekile ukuthi kusebusuku noma kusemini, qala imoto yakho. Kumajeep, sazulisa imiphongolo yamanzi amalitha angamashumi amahlanu phakathi kwethu. Amanzi, amanzi, amanzi, leso sisekelo. I-Sahara iyingozi kakhulu kwabangenalwazi.
Bayibambe enqabeni yethu, sinesihlabathi yonke indawo, sihluthula izicathulo zethu, sihlanze amakhanda ethu ngokusemandleni ethu. Yebo, akukho shawa lapha. UHasan nabangane bakhe bahlezi ngemuva kwe-kazbah, eyakhiwe njengenqaba, lapho ngivalelise khona kuye. Njengokungathi unomalaleveva, akanyakazi nhlobo, kodwa awukho umalaleveva lapha eSahara. Emadolobheni amaSulumane avakashela ama-mosque ngobuningi njengoba senza emasontweni ngoKhisimusi, kodwa lapha akukho mosque. Ngakho abenzi lutho.
Futhi isidlo sakusihlwa sizoba nini? Ngiyacela. Impendulo iwukubukeka okunobutha. Ungigwaza ngawo, abambe izindebe zomlomo, angasho lutho. Uma kuba mnyama, ngehora, uthi ekugcineni. Kodwa ngingabuza, akunjalo? Usuku lonke akenzanga lutho futhi akasenzi lutho manje. Hhayi-ke sengiqala ukunuka Abesifazane baseBedouin bapheka i-harira ngemuva. Leli isobho engilithandayo. Kumnandi ngempela. Utamatisi, ama-chickpeas futhi ikakhulukazi izinongo ezimangalisayo. AmaBedouin akwenza ngamakhambi angatholakali kwenye indawo. Ngikuthanda kakhulu lapha, kodwa lokho futhi kungenxa yokuthi ngihlala ngilambile kakhulu lapha.
Lyuba, abantu bakho bazodla endlini yokudlela, woza lapha egcekeni lethu, woza, uthi, ngemuva kwehora. Ungixoshile.
Ngizobuya ngemva kwehora, bengithatha izithombe zokushona kwelanga, sekuhlwile, ngemva kwesiphepho, hhayi igama noma umsindo. Inyanga isinesikhathi eside isezulwini, isikela elincanyana, manje izinkanyezi seziqala ukulunguza. Zinhle kakhulu emhlabeni eSahara. Mahle ukwedlula ezintabeni, awekho amafu; intuthu, isibhakabhaka sicwebile. Sekuphele isigamu sehora kumnyama, itafula selilungisiwe. Itafula lamapulangwe, indwangu yetafula ehlotshisiwe, izitsha zobumba ezimhlophe neziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, iMorocco edume ngayo. Wonke umuntu uhlezi, ngilambile njengempisi, ngidle ukudla kwasemini okokugcina, ngizokwehla ngakho manje. Nokho, amaBedouin awazange adle kusukela ekuseni, kusukela ekuphumeni kwelanga, awazange afake lutho emlonyeni wawo, awazange aphuze ngisho nokuphuza. Amadoda aseshintshile manje, agqoke izingubo ezihlanzekile eziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, amaduku amahle emakhanda awo futhi alungiselela ukuthandaza. U-Hasan njengoba umphathi eqala ukuthandaza futhi ethandaza isikhathi eside, ikhanda lakhe ligobile futhi ngokuzumayo angizizwa ngilambile, kodwa ngizwa umoya omuhle. Manje njengoba ngibhala lokhu, kufana nokuthi ngihlezi lapho nabo. Ngiqalaza ngedwa, lesi sigodlo sasogwadule njengokungathi sivela eNkathini Ephakathi, amadoda afana nangesikhathi sokuzalwa kukaJesu, akukho lutho lapha, omakhalekhukhwini kuphela ababekwe etafuleni, kodwa namanje akukabibikho uphawu.
Ngamunye wethu ubeka usuku emlonyeni wakhe. Isipiliyoni esimnandi, esihle, esihle kakhulu. Khona-ke uHasan uzungeza indishi yobisi bekamela futhi wonke umuntu, kuhlanganise nami, uyaphuza. Lesi yisiqalo. Bese kuqhamuka iharira, iyashisa, inephunga elimnandi, iyamangalisa, uma uke wathola ithuba zama lelo sobho, lidumile futhi sengilidle umhlaba wonke. Kodwa lapha eMorocco yiyona ehamba phambili. Wonke umuntu udla ngomusa omkhulu, kancane, uma ngibona, ngiqala ukwenza njengabo, sengathi asikho eSahara, kodwa enqabeni. Amawundlu nezinkukhu eza ngokulandelayo, amaqanda, ushizi, iftar (lapha beyibiza ngokuthi ftour), lithini igama lalokhu kuminza kwakusihlwa, kuyisipiliyoni.
Bese wonke umuntu eqala ukuhleka, sonke siyahleka, ukuthula kuqeda izingxoxo zethu, amakhekhe, i-sellou, i-chebaki enamathani esesame ivela etafuleni kanye nezigidi zezinkanyezi ngaphezu kwethu.
I-Ramadan ikhombisa umuntu ukuthi aphile kanjani kwabampofu, abavame ukubona umbono onjalo. Basebaningi balabo bantu e-Afrika, kodwa futhi emhlabeni wonke. Abaningi badla kanye kuphela ngosuku, abaningi kuphela ngezinye izinsuku. Badla inyama yeholide elikhulu kuphela, mhlawumbe kanye ngonyaka, ngisho nenyama yenkukhu ebonakala sengathi ifile ingabonwa cishe ayinayo inyama kuyo. Noma inhlanzi eyomisiwe, akusiyo ngisho inyama. Bafaka ukunambitheka kwenyama noma kwenhlanzi esitsheni, kodwa akuyona inyama yangempela. Ungalokothi. Ngabhekana neRamadan mhlawumbe izikhathi eziyishumi emhlabeni wamaSulumane, kodwa khona lapha eSahara kwakuyiRamadan njengoba yayivame ukuba, ngezwa ingokomoya layo eliqinile.
Ukukhumbula abampofu kubalulekile kithi Muslim. Uma unokuningi, nika amaphesenti ayishumi omcebo wakho. Uma unokuncane, nikela ngenhliziyo yakho. Yilokho uHasan angitshela khona, uthatha isigubhu ezandleni zakhe, asukume futhi sihambe phakathi kwabanye abantu. Uqala ukudlala, ukucula nokudansa. U-Hasan usephenduke waba mncane ngokuzumayo, useyamamatheka futhi, usephinde waba yindlela engimazi ngayo, egcwele amandla. Angeke ngibuse ngilale ngehora lesithathu, kodwa amaBedouins awina kuze kuse, labo bathi abakaze bezwe into efana nalena ngaphambilini.
Usuku lokuqala lwe-Ramadan lunzima kakhulu. Kuthatha isikhathi ukuthi umzimba ujwayele ukuzila ukudla. Engadli lutho futhi engaphuzi ngisho nalutho. Amandla kumele agcinwe. Ukuze ube phakathi kwabathandekayo, ukwabelana ngolwazi. Ngokubambisana sizohlala sithola eziningi zazo, sizofika phambili. Uyazi, ogwadule izazi zihamba ne-caravan, iziwula zodwa. Futhi kuyafana empilweni.
Ramadan: inyanga engcwele yamaMuslim, enye yezinsika ze-Islam.
IKoran yembulwa kuMprofethi uMuhammad phakathi neRamadan. AmaSulumane azila ukudla, anikele futhi athandaze izinsuku ezingama-30 umgubho omkhulu we-Eid Al Fitr. Isithombe sokuvula sithathwe ngesikhathi se-Ramadan endlini yamaSulumane edolobheni lase-Fez.
Umthombo we-athikili: https://bubo.sk/blog/zacina-sa-ramadan
Umbhali we-athikili: Ľuboš Fellner